Vine Path Blog 5/20: Domaine Goisot
Vine Path Blog 5/20:
Domaine Goisot
Among the great French wine regions, Burgundy may reign supreme. For wine fans, both professional and casual, the wines of Burgundy represent the highest level of quality, balance, and style. For the producers in the region, the effort is one steeped in tradition and an overwhelming love and appreciation for the land that gifts them these incredible wines. While the wines of the Cote d’Or demand some of the highest prices and scores of all the world’s wines, there are emerging pockets of Burgundy where new talent is blessing us with world class examples of Burgundy wines at a reasonable price. Among those producers waiting to be fully discovered is Domaine Goisot, who’s wines we’re proud to bring you this month. Welcome to the Côte d’Auxerre.
An older vineyard in is Goisot domain.
Just a stone's throw west of Chablis in the most northerly part of Burgundy is where you’ll find Côte d’Auxerre. For whatever reasons, political, social, or environmental, the Côte d’Auxerre has never been seen as a particularly exceptional terroir despite the fact that it’s vineyards sit on the same kimmeridgian limestone band that all the great vineyards of Chablis rest on. For consumers this means that if one can find a great wine in the Côte d’Auxerre then you’ll be getting it for an amazing value and Domaine Goisot is perhaps the best of them all.
Guildhem in the vineyard.
The Goisot family can trace their roots in the area back to the 14th century but it wasn’t until siblings Ghislaine and Jean Huges Goisot took the reins in 1979 that the domaine would start to garner attention. Perhaps it was this family heritage that kept them from ever using farming chemicals even when the rest of Burgundy was adopting them. The vineyards in their domaine produce exceptional fruit with a clean and pure essence to them. Always committed to finding more sustainable and regenerative methods, the domain was certified biodynamic in 2005, the same year the torch was passed down to the grandson, Guilhem.
Domaine Goisot Aligote
Domaine Goisot Aligoté
Aligote is the black sheep variety of Burgundy. I don’t think it would be an exaggeration to say that not many people understand it. Since the Côte d’Auxerre is so northerly, and therefore so cool in climate, Aligote can thrive. The expression of this grape when grown on kimmeridgian limestone is electric, offering up intense minerality and laser like acidity that makes it endlessly refreshing and easily adaptable to any cuisine. Like all of Goisot’s wines, the Aligote is raised sur lees in stainless steel after fermenting with native yeasts. Like all the great vignerons of Burgundy, very little is done to the wine at any stage, which preserves its expression of the terroir.
DOmaine Goisot Cote d’Auxerre Gondonne
Domaine Goisot Côte d’Auxerre Gondonne
Of the wines this month, this one is probably the best treat of them all. This single vineyard Chardonnay was planted to cuttings from the famous Raveneau vineyard Les Clos, one of the most prized Chardonnay in the entire world. This expression of Chardonnay is characteristic of the region, leaner, more acid and mineral focused, and with no oak. The extended time this wine spent aging sur lees gives it an attractive toasty, almost nutty quality and it’s slight age has helped to coalesce all it’s features. Feel free to keep this wine for another five years if you have the willpower!
Domaine Goisot Irancy Les Mazelots
Domaine Goisot Irancy Les Mazelots
In the southern part of the Côte d’Auxerre there is a tiny appellation dedicated to Pinot Noir called Irancy and like the rest of the region it’s been overlooked for too long. Since we’re in such a cool climate, the Pinot Noir of Irancy is herbaceous and lean with lighter body and tannin than its cousins to the south. The Goisot’s take a risk when they make this wine, opting to let the fruit ripen longer on the vine in order to achieve full ripeness, which leaves it at risk of being exposed to dangerous weather. While most Irancy seems simple and fresh the Irancy of Goisot is a dynamite wine that can be sized up against any great Pinot Noir.
A view of Auxerre from the Goisot’s vineyard.